Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Morocco Part 1: Tangier and Asilah

I went to Morocco for four days at the end of November and had the most amazing experience ever! I went with a program called Morocco Exchange that's designed for students studying in Spain. I'm so glad I went with the program because we got to meet so many people and get a really authentic view of the country instead of just doing the touristy stuff (although we got to do a little of that too!).

So, we took a ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar to Tangier! It was really windy on the upper deck, but we got great views as we approached AFRICA!

This is what Moroccan Durhams look like - they have the pictures of the current king and his two predecessors (aka dad and gramps).

We didn't spend too much time in Tangier, but we got to wander around the old part of the city before lunch. This is the main square...
Trash can with ARABIC!!!! Speaking of Arabic, I learned embarassingly little Arabic while there - "thank you," "the food is delicious," "peace be upon you" (hello), "goodbye," "let's go," "cat," and "dog."

We went the the DARNA women's center for lunch where we met with some students from the University of Tangier to talk about Morocco (and to eat AMAZING food - couscous!!!!!!!!!!). We talked about Morocco and learned so much! Morocco was the first country to recognize the USA as an independent country after our split from England - never knew that (makes sense, considering Morocco had been a French colony...). Morocco is the most progressive Islamic country in the world - the women's rights movement is very active and successful, and although almost everyone in the country is Muslim, there's freedom of religion - right next to Tangier's largest mosque are the church and synagogue. It is, however, illegal to say anything against Islam or the king of Morocco. The king seems very popular, and he's been funding a lot of progressive projects with divorce/custody laws and public transport options.
We took a group photo on the rooftop - the two Moroccan students are on the far right.
and some YUMMY YUMMY COUSCOUS!

We drove along the ocean towards Asilah, and stopped on the way to ride CAMELS on the beach! It was pretty darn exciting, and we took so many pictures...
The camels smiled for the photo:

We continued south to Asilah, the prettiest little town ever.
Hooray for the Atlantic Ocean!! (Jazz hands!)

That night we drove to Rabat to meet our host families. I'll talk about that in the next post...

Holy Toledo!!!

IES took us all to Toledo for a day trip about a month ago (I'm clearly not good at keeping this blog updated....).  It's considered the City of Three Cultures because of the Christian, Jewish, and Muslim communities that coexisted in the city for centuries. We explored the tiny medieval streets, saw lots of art by El Greco, ate delicious marzipan, visited a sword factory.

We started out across the river, where we got a fabulous view of the city:

The Toledo Cathedral is considered one of the best in Spain. The outside is pretty standard, but inside was really cool. No photos were allowed inside, but we saw lots of artwork and artifacts, along with the ridiculously impressive architecture. Here are my attempts at getting a good photo of the cathedral at kind of awkward angles...

We saw two old synagogues - VERY rare in Spain. I think I heard there are only three historic synagogues left in Spain. It was really cool because five of us are taking a university class about Jewish culture in Spain. The second synagogue has Arabic influence because it was also temporarily a mosque.

We saw several churches - my favorite had this amazing courtyard in the center with palm trees!!

The old part of the city is surrounded by medieval walls:

Then we went to the sword factory! They made the swords for the Lord of the Rings movies! We had a ridiculous time playing with the swords (the ones we had access to weren't sharpened...)

And some fun photos... a marzipan castle!!!

Love this - the first ingredient listed is salt. That pretty much sums up Spanish cooking. Also, as you can see from the image, Toledo isn't exactly known for it's food. Our Spanish professor literally told us not to eat there because it's the worst food in Spain... except for the marzipan!

Just to show how touristy Toledo is - thank goodness we were there in November instead of summertime!

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Barcelona: the land of Gaudí, palm trees, and pickpockets

So this post is incredibly late, considering I went to Barcelona over a month ago... We took the midnight train (going anywhere) from Madrid to Barcelona which was an experience, to say the least, involving very little sleep. Somehow we managed a full day of sightseeing upon our 7 AM arrival in Barcelona. We explored the awesome Barri Gotic (photo above) and the old cathedral in the morning. 

By the waterfront is the statue of Christopher Columbus (Cristobal Colón in Spain). Catalunya (the northeastern region of Spain) claims that Columbus was actually Catalan - it's a very contentious topic. The statue is supposed to point to the New World, but actually points in the wrong direction - oops! 

Pics of the harbor and the salty Mediterranean:

Barcelona created its own Arc de Triomph for the 1888 World's Fair. It's Paris with palm trees:

We saw the Sagrada Familia for the first time at night. We literally emerged from the subway station on our way to dinner and saw this:

I loved Parc Guell! So unusual, great views of Barcelona, and lots of great photo ops! I couldn't decide which ones to include in this post...

More Gaudí works - La Pedrera and Casa Batlló. This trip was especially cool for Lea and me because we had just learned about all the modernist architecture in our Art History class! We didn't go inside any of his houses since they are so expensive (17 euro with student discount!!), but enjoyed them from the outside. 

We were, however, willing to fork over the bucks to go inside the Sagrada Familia (which was actually cheaper than the houses, surprisingly enough). Construction began in 1882 and it's still under construction (expected to be completed in 2026). They've built now completed the roof, 8 of the 18 towers, and 2 of the 3 facades. 

We also went to the Picasso Museum, explored the Ramblas, went to the market, and walked A LOT! I enjoyed my first hostel experience - we met people from Serbia, Mexico, Germany, and the Netherlands. Most importantly, didn't get pickpocketed!! According to tripadvisor.com, Barcelona is the pickpocket capital of the world, followed closely by Rome. 


Friday, November 19, 2010

A lot of random stuff...

It was a very bad week for Spanish sports, and I'm surrounded by lots of depressed people. In the Formula 1 World Championship, the Spaniard (don't remember his name because I could care less about car races) had a huge lead going into the final day, and everyone expected him to win. Somehow he ended up in 7th place - Spain was not happy. As popular as Formula 1 is here, though, it's nothing compared to soccer (of course). Spain played Portugal last night and lost 4-0. It was the worst game I've ever watched in my life. I don't think national depression has set in yet because everyone is in total shock. Two huge upsets = unhappy country.

On a happier note, I'm making Spanish friends! I've been doing lots of "intercambios" through the university where I meet up with Spanish students who study English and we each practice the other language. It's very helpful for improving my Spanish, but also super fun because you pretty much just go out for coffee or tapas and talk for an hour or two. I'm really happy because some of them are starting to become "real" friends rather than just intercambios. There are some interests that I've learned I have in common with pretty much ALL Spaniards: the TV show How I Met Your Mother (Como conocí a vuestra madre), the band Muse (no big surprise, since all of Europe loves them), and soccer (although this is usually only true of guys - Spanish girls are surprisingly indifferent to the sport). I've also learned that Spaniards are almost always late - if they say to meet at 6, they arrive at 6:10 at the earliest.

 Last weekend I went out with one of my intercambios and some of her friends - almost all of them were learning English, so they knew some of the lyrics to the American pop songs that play about 75% of the time in the bars. Along with all the current pop stars - Katy Perry, Lady Gaga, Rihanna, etc - I've heard a TON of Bon Jovi. The whole bar was singing along with incredible enthusiasm to "Living on a Prayer," even the people who clearly didn't know English - it was hilarious. I knew the lyrics to a few of the Spanish songs that played, so that earned me some respect. They were really shocked that I knew any Spanish songs.

It's really interesting talking to Spaniards about politics because they're so much more liberal than Americans. They have universal health care, and really don't understand why so many Americans are against it. They're also really surprised at the socialism fear in the United States, considering Prime Minister Zapatero is a member of the Spanish Socialist Workers' Party. Spain seems to be much more focused on the good of everyone than the US is. Everyone is, of course, very pro-Obama and very anti-Bush.

Spain is still very much a Catholic country - I think 70% of Spaniards, or something like that, consider themselves Catholic. However, it's becoming less and less Catholic by the year. I think over 90% were Catholic in the 90s, and the percentage has been dropping steadily ever since the end of the Franco regime. The vast majority of Catholics don't attend church, I think only like 10% or something. (I've read these statistics before from reliable sources, I just don't remember the exact numbers....) So things got really interesting when the pope visited Spain a few weeks ago and really offended everybody. He of course chastised the country for allowing gay marriage and abortion (which didn't offend people too much because they were already expecting him to say that), but he really crossed the line when he talked about the "dangers of secularism" and compared Spain's trend toward secularism to the priest-killing Republicans during the Civil War. Because not attending church is CLEARLY the same thing as killing people. And never mind that the Catholic church at the time was backing Franco's regime, which was commiting equal atrocities. Some people felt that he supporting the former dictatorship - not a good move, Benedict. I talked with my friend Ildara about the visit since she's Catholic. I asked her about being Catholic while not necessarily agreeing with everything the pope says, and she responded, "we don't agree with ANYTHING the pope says."

Hopefully I'll get to see the new Harry Potter movie soon - I'm really excited about watching it in Spanish instead of English! Although lots of countries do subtitles for American movies and TV shows, Spain almost exclusively dubs. Perfect for me to practice (dubbed movies are SOOOOOOO much easier to understand than regular Spanish films because they speak so clearly!!!), although all my intercambios hate it because they can't practice their English. My Spanish professor said that the dubbing is a result of the Franco regime - Franco loved dubbing because it made it so easy to censure films. There were some movies that had huge plot points completely changed because they were too immoral. Now, everyone's so used to dubbed films that they're not going to switch to subtitles. But it's really weird  to see a movie on TV with a movie star like George Clooney and thinking, "that's not what George Clooney sounds like!"

Thursday, November 11, 2010

¡Un gooooooooooooolllllllllllllllll!!!!!

So I've been super busy lately. Lots of papers to write - it takes so long to write in Spanish!!!
Anyway, about a month ago the Spanish national soccer team (World Cup champions!!!!) played a game IN SALAMANCA. Tickets were, of course, ridiculously expensive and impossible to obtain anyway, but there was a huge screen set up in the Plaza Mayor - the whole plaza was filled with fans watching the game. It was literally one of my favorite moments from Spain.
Spain played Lithuania and, of course, crushed them. It was awesome. Here are some pics:
Kim and I would make such a great addition to the team!
Spanish flag facepaint
Everyone bought jerseys
The World Cup was on display in the Plaza Mayor!
with the cup
Why is the European Cup so much larger than the World Cup? (yeah, Spain also won this little championship - they kind of dominate)
The line to see the world cup wrapped around the entire plaza. People waited in line for hours!

The back of my head was in the local paper!
Next Wednesday Spain plays Portugal - that should be intense!